Today, the passion for watchmaking is divided into two fan groups: lovers of the big brands and supporters of the small independent brands. Two factions that are not opposed to each other and that, on the contrary, happily mix, with fans of both genders representing two completely different approaches to the industry.
On the one hand, we have established brands with integrated manufactures or a solid network of suppliers belonging to the same ownership (mostly industrial or financial groups). On the other, we have small entrepreneurs with out-of-the-box ideas, who make use of the large and varied Swiss watch industry for production, but who are only able to produce a few pieces per year, with a high craftsmanship content. Make no mistake, even brands of a more industrial nature produce pieces of the highest craftsmanship, but with the support of mass production (of quality, but with much larger volumes).
It is precisely the high-end that today has to contend with the offerings of independent watch manufacturers. And the maistream brands should take into account how the presence of haute horlogerie manufacturers from different backgrounds in the outlets helps to attract a refined, interested and - in many cases - new clientele. So much so, in fact, that several Italian watchmakers are currently focusing almost exclusively on independents.
This decision is also dictated by the scarcity of product from the big brands. The frustration of not being able to buy the watch they want is pushing collectors to learn more about alternative names. I'm talking about brands which make between 500 and 2,000 watches a year barely, so of the smaller, more popular (and well-known) brands there is already a difficulty in finding certain models. But there is no need to despair, because the offer is truly varied and it is a world in which exciting discoveries can be made.
And you, which watchmaker are you for: big brands or independent?
Dody Giussani
