To benefit the end user as much as possible, one must radically simplify what is complicated. Audemars Piguet's modern generation of perpetual calendars, with the calibre 7138, introduces an ingenious and innovative regulating mechanism.
The new perpetual calendar calibre 7138, held to open the 150th anniversary celebrations of Audemars Piguet, puts the previous innovation developed by the Maison to good use. The aim is to prioritise not only thinness (4.1 mm thick), but also practicality of use, offering an intuitive, user-friendly complication without fear of damage.
Because the most significant element of the new calibre is the adjustment of the calendar functions via the crown. This detail eliminates the need for correction pushpieces and additional tools for adjustment.
Each indication can be set individually both forwards and backwards without damage. This means that if an error is made, it is not necessary to send the watch to the manufacture for servicing.
An 'all-in-one' crown for setting the Audemars Piguet perpetual calendar
The 7138 calibre patents.
Audemars Piguet's Calibre 7138 boasts five patents. Two separate patents are for the crown setting system, two patents cover the subtle construction of the perpetual calendar and, finally, one patent for the progressive day wheel.
The crown has four positions to adjust all functions. Simple to operate, it is however based on a complex mechanism driven by an innovative system of levers and wheels and swivels connected to the various calendar wheels in the 2' and 2' positions. If you make a mistake while setting the watch, you can continue to turn the crown until you reach the desired setting.
The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Automatic 41 mm
Audemars Piguet's new perpetual calendar dial layout.
As well as a model from the Code 11.59 collection, Calibre 7138 debuts on two versions of the Royal Oak CPerpetual Calendar, in steel (110.700 euro) and sandblasted 18-carat gold (price on request). The dimensions (41 mm in diameter and 9.5 mm thick) and general design are the same as those of the previous versions of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Automatic.
The lack of correction buttons gives it a sleeker profile and greater water resistance (50 metres against the previous 20). In addition, the layout of the dial, with its Mega Tapisserie motif (a hallmark of the collection), has been modified for the new movement.
