Editorial - The surprises of Watches and Wonders 2023

What happened at Geneva Watch Week, among novelties and announcements, reveals a growing vitality in the sector.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon

The Watches and Wonders closed the week before Easter with a decidedly positive balance, in terms of volume and quality. This edition was marked by the renewal of iconic collections, such as the Rolex Daytona or the Reverso by Jaeger-LeCoultre, and the relaunch of historic models, such as the Ingenieur by IWC. The most evident trends are the increasingly widespread use of titanium (Rolex docet, following a trend already embraced by several brands, including Omega) and smaller diameters, under 39 millimetres.

Rolex Daytona

Geneva Watch Week was also the ideal stage for some announcements, such as that of Jean-Claude Biver's return with his own brand after the historic relaunch of Blancpain in 1981. The resemblance between the Biver logo and the Blancpain logo did not escape the attention of the industry's oldest visitors: a nostalgia operation or a precise statement?

Daniel Roth

On 27 March, LVMH also made an interesting revelation, announcing the imminent return of the Gérald Genta brand. Jean Arnault - Marketing and Development Director of Louis Vuitton Watches - has in fact signed an agreement with Evelyne Genta, the Maestro's widow, securing the rights to the Gérald Genta archive.

Tudor Black Bay 54

The new watches will be made by Fabrique du Temps, the manufacture that currently makes Louis Vuitton watches. Fabrique du Temps was founded in 2010 by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, former collaborators of Genta himself when he produced his watches. A twist of fate? Perhaps. But certainly a magical return, made possible by the young Arnault, a 24-year-old watchmaking enthusiast who has already undertaken the revival operation of the Daniel Roth (another LVMH-owned brand), with the re-edition of the famous Tourbillon Souscription.

Dody Giussani

IWC Ingenieur Automatic

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